For the love of pilsner: visiting the Pilsner Urquell brewery and the power of nostalgia

'Nostalgia - it's delicate, but potent... a twinge in your heart more powerful than memory alone.' These words were spoken by a fictional character on a TV show set 50 years in the past (Don Draper on AMC's Mad Men), but still ring true. For those who are passionate about beer, there may be a particular brand or variety that, through some previous experience, is able to trigger something intangible, beyond the realm of sensory perception. For me, that beer is Pilsner Urquell.

A few years ago, I had the good fortune to travel to the Czech Republic for a conference, and was excited to visit the Pilsner Urquell brewery in Pilsen, about an hour's bus ride from Prague. Before I even got there, though, I was blown away by the ubiquity of beer in Czech culture. It was everywhere, in large volume, and relatively inexpensive (as I recall, about $1.50 or so CDN for a 500 mL bottle at any convenience store). It's really no surprise that Czechs consume the largest volume of beer per person, per year. Also, it was my understanding that drinking in public is permitted, as long as you're not a jerk about it. (It's highly possible that something in that description was lost in translation.)

Prague, Czech Republic - the consummate beer locale.

Standard pop and beer serving sizes.
Really glad we weren't driving anywhere.

Then came time to travel to the brewery in Pilsen. The best way I can describe the brewery is through the following mental exercise:

Picture Willy Wonka's chocolate factory from Roald Dahl's classic Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Subtract the annoying children. Subtract the Oompa-Loompas. Add large volumes of fresh, crisp Czech pilsner. Then drink said pilsner in an unfiltered state, straight from a barrel in an underground cave. Think to yourself, 'This must be how Batman drinks.'

The archway marking the entrance to the brewery - featured prominently on
each bottle and can of Pilsner Urquell.  

The grounds are immaculately kept, with a nice mix of modern (like the
visitor's centre, above) and older buildings.

You get to drink unfiltered pilsner from these
massive barrels in the chilly network of
caves beneath the brewery.

Like some kind of beer-producing spaceship.

That's a lot of pilsner.

Truly, the brewery and surrounding grounds were remarkable, not only in their scope and purpose, but also in their ability to 'beerify' everything (it's a verb). Some examples of this 'beerification' below.

Massive chess game, featuring...

... you guessed it, beer bottle pawns.

This was in the visitor's centre. In case you couldn't
wait for the tour (or walk five minutes to the nearest
pub serving Pilsner Urquell)

The Pilsner bus: takes you from the visitor's centre to the brewery in style.

The Pilsner cycle: for lager-loving bad boys.

The tour itself was also very informative. When it first began operation, the brewery in Pilsen represented a significant departure from the more grass roots system that existed previously in the region, in which multitudinous small-scale brewers advertised their latest releases with wreaths on their doors (below). Further, while bottom-fermented lagers had existed previously, Pilsner Urquell really defined the style, and produced it on a sufficiently large scale to lead to its widespread popularity worldwide.

In the days before large, centralized breweries,
beer-makers would place wreaths on their doors
to announce their latest release. We're totally
getting one for the condo brewery.

I left the brewery completely enamoured with Pilsner Urquell, and with a better appreciation for both its production and history. To this day, my experience at the brewery, and with Czech culture in general, resonates every time I pick up a can or bottle of the pilsner, enhancing the overall experience. The interesting thing about nostalgia, though, is that it's not all about the past; it can also guide future judgements and decisions. I enjoy the Saaz hop flavour and crispness of pilsners on a purely sensory basis, but find that even non-Urquell offerings invoke a bit of that same nostalgia, perhaps even to the extent of being 'comfort beer.' Based on this, Halifax is truly a great place to live. Garrison Brewing's seasonal Pils captures a lot of the character of the Pilsen original, and Propeller Brewing's Pilsener is a bit maltier, but still an excellent representation of the style. There have also been rumblings that Steam Whistle, the craft-brewed Toronto pilsner, may be making its way to the east coast this spring.

If you get a chance, I'd definitely recommend taking a trip to the Czech Republic, and visiting the Pilsner Urquell brewery. If you like great beer, you're probably already a fan, but experiencing its production and culture firsthand can add that extra, powerful element of nostalgia.

Rockbottom Goes High Tech

Paper drink lists are so 1980's... you know, the age when trees were plentiful and the beer selection in Nova Scotia was anything but.  A lot has changed since then, and the Rockbottom Brewpub has joined a growing trend of replacing them using electronic lists (in this case, with an Apple iPad). This will ensure the list is always up to date, and patrons don't miss out on Nash's latest creation by mistake.

I really hope they installed Tapper on them, as well!

Live Free or Rye Hard

As those of you who follow the blog know, Earl and I have been working on a Rye IPA as part of the Garrison Brewing ultimate brew-off. We called it 'Rye Hard,' in honour of the awesome, but often ridiculous, Bruce Willis action franchise. This past week we finally got to taste our work, and I'm sad to say that there were no exclamations of 'yippie ki-yay!' after the first sampling. We also realized that we had run out of time, and wouldn't have been able to scale up and complete a batch for the competition deadline anyway. On the upside, the veil of secrecy can be lifted, and we can talk about what worked and what didn't.

Turns out most of what we did didn't work. We had tried two different batches, both using the same malt and hop profile, with a secret ingredient added to one. We used approximately 18% rye in the grain bill, which gave the body some weight and added a spiciness neither of us really cared for. Any benefit derived from the complex hop addition schedule we followed (6 additions over the span of a 60 minute boil) seemed to be lost in the pervasive malty-spiciness.

The secret ingredient was inspired by a former hobby of mine, baking bread. One of the staple ingredients of rye bread is caraway seed, and as the flavours go well together, it seemed like a good idea to try it out in the beer. The batch that contained the caraway definitely turned out better (clearer, smoother flavour & toned down body), but didn't taste like caraway in the slightest. I still think that caraway would definitely work in a Rye IPA, and am very curious to see if anyone else included it.

Well, at least something we bottled finally turned out to be carbonated!

The one thing that did work out actually worked a little too well. Going with the theme of things that work for rye bread, we used honey as a primer for bottle carbonation. Turns out we used too much, which lead to some crazy head and a cloying sweetness. Again, I think the idea was good, but we stumbled a bit on the implementation.

While we aimed for 'take out a helicopter with a car' awesome, we ended up with 'seeing a helicopter while driving in a car' mediocrity. Regardless, we learned a lot and are definitely looking forward to trying the brew-off winning beer.

Of Hops and Hummingbirds

Following almost two weeks of dry-hopping, our Magnitude IPA (which we've now started calling Darkside IPA, as we evidently have the attention spans of hummingbirds) was ready to be kegged, and soon thereafter, sampled. The transfer to the keg was in itself eventful. Not paying close enough attention, I stuck the end of the racking cane into the hoppy turb layer at the bottom of the carboy, drawing a good amount of hop detritus (green goo) into the transfer tube before I could correct the error. The first little bit flowed okay... but then the detritus plugged the tube. Drew bravely attempted to unplug the line by manual siphoning - think of someone siphoning gas from a car, then replace the car with a carboy full of beer, and you get the idea - and was nearly rewarded with a mouthful of hoppy green goo. While somewhat disappointed that the most comedic (at least from my standpoint) outcome didn't play out, the rest of the transfer went smoothly, and we proceeded to cool the keg overnight and carbonate the IPA the following day.

Turb strata at the bottom of the carboy... as seen by Predator.

Of course, cleaning the carboy afterward was necessary... and kind of gnarly.

Goo riddance. 

Then came time for the initial tasting. The Magnitude poured a beautiful (but we might be biased) amber, with a substantial and persistent head. The hop aroma was bang-on what we'd hoped for using four ounces of Cascade to dry hop - predominantly citrus with minor notes of pine resin. There was some bite up front from the Amarillo, but we were surprised by how well the maltiness stood up to it, as our theoretical IBUs (International Bittering Units) were pretty high. The taste then transitioned to citrus, with a biscuit finish. This was our first brew using Victory malt, and so we hadn't really encountered this kind of cookie/biscuit flavour before, but it was kind of nice. The body was a bit heavy, but not unpleasant.

Can you guess which was the first one poured from the keg?

Overall, we're pretty happy with how the Magnitude IPA turned out, and it gives us a great foundation upon which to further develop our recipe. Personally, I'd like to make it more of a hop bomb up front, but still retain some of that nice biscuit flavour. With all of the possible combinations of grains and hops, it makes you wonder how any of the established breweries ever decide upon a 'final' recipe; but I guess figuring that out it is all part of the fun.

(Sorry for the Doogie Howser ending. It just kind of happened.)

Beyond the Darkside: Garrison Beer Pairing Dinner

On Thursday, February 9, Garrison Brewing and Durty Nelly's Irish Pub in Halifax held their third annual beer pairing dinner. The dinner featured three courses - an appetizer, main, and dessert - that showcased local ingredients, all matched and infused with Garrison's craft beers. Hosted by Durty Nelly's co-owner Joe McGuiness, with introductions to each course and tasting notes from Garrison's brew master Daniel Girard, the dinner provided a great opportunity to learn more about the nuances of beer pairing and tasting.

This was our first beer pairing dinner, and we weren't entirely sure what to expect. It got off to a great start, though, as we arrived and were immediately offered a glass of Tall Ship Amber Ale, 'for mingling.' The light caramelization and hop character of the Tall Ship provided a great starting point for the evening, and our glasses were barely empty when the first course began, accompanied by a glass of Hopyard Pale Ale. It was interesting to hear Girard refer to Hopyard as a 'beer of the future,' noting how its bitterness and citrus character placed it among similar beers on the rise from the US west coast.

Edible baskets, so hot (and sour) right now!

The first course offered was a hot and sour Hop Yard broth with shrimp, scallops, and mussels in an egg noodle basket. While the broth didn't taste like the beer, it melded wonderfully with the hot and sour aspects into something truly memorable. The seafood was properly cooked and individual flavours weren't overpowered by the broth, which can easily happen (especially with shrimp). The Hop Yard made an excellent pairing as the hoppy bitterness balanced the spicy notes of the broth and richness of the seafood. The egg noodle basket made for great presentation, but was somewhat awkward to eat. If not submerged in broth, the noodles stayed uncooked and crunchy. Regardless, the first course was great and left us keen for more.

All my braises will now contain Irish Red.  You're next, brisket!

We didn't have long to wait, as glasses of Garrison's best-selling Irish Red Ale arrived quickly. Shortly thereafter appeared the main course of Irish Red braised beef rib with toasted barley risotto, wild mushrooms, and a trio of caramelized onions and candied brussel sprouts. The dark caramel and Munich malts used in the Irish Red impart a sweetness that paired perfectly with the beef, both as a primary flavour from the braise and in the accompanying glass of beer. Taking into account that it was also 'fall off the bone' tender, this made for one fantastic rib. The risotto was on the salty side, but the added texture the barley provided was enjoyable. And serving a course with a barley base at a beer dinner? Awesome. To top it off, the brussel sprouts were so good that Earl even ate them... and as a long standing detractor, that's saying something.

Stout easily replaced after dinner coffee. Warning: Stout should not replace mid-morning coffee.

Two disparate, but complementary, beers heralded the arrival of dessert: Martello Stout, full-bodied and dark in colour, with strong toffee notes; and Raspberry Wheat, light, fruity, and refreshing. The dessert itself was comprised of four parts, including a cold raspberry-blueberry soup with the Raspberry Wheat as a base, a whipped espresso-Martello Stout shot, a bottle-shaped cookie, and two panna cottas (one white chocolate, one dark). While beer soup is not something I'd usually want to try, this rendition was bright and refreshing, and proved to be excellent for bottle cookie dunking. The shot provided great contrast, with a hit of creamy sweet coffee flavour. Both beers paired well with everything on the plate, and even tasted great when mixed together; chocolate raspberry coffee anyone?

In our opinion, this event was a tremendous success. We enjoyed the opportunity to hear Garrison's brew master discuss their beers so candidly, and to tie in key considerations for pairing beer with food that promote their mutual enhancement and enjoyment. The setting was surprisingly intimate for a relatively large pub, the service fast and friendly, and all attendees seemed laid back and just looking to enjoy a night of good food and beer. The $50 price tag for the dinner seemed a bit steep at first, but considering that one received the equivalent of four beer, three well-thought-out and delicious courses, stellar service, and insight from Garrison's brew master, it now seems like a pretty great value. Did we mention that taxes and tip were included in that price, and that there was live music afterward?

At the end of the evening, we left a little wiser, completely full, and perhaps a little tipsy. We also left really looking forward to next year's dinner.

Condo Brewing 101: Reducing Your Brewing Footprint

If you're reading this post, then brewing your own beer probably seems like a pretty good idea. You get creative control over what you make (and ultimately, what you drink), and after some initial investment in brewing gear, it's quite economical. But the cost of that gear can be prohibitive, and for those who (like us) reside in apartments and condos, finding space to keep that gear can prove to be an equal or larger challenge. So, in the interest of encouraging others to take up the gauntlet of home brewing (which I imagine to be bedazzled with hop-shaped rhinestones), we've put together a couple of suggestions for how to get started making your own beer, both cheaply and with the smallest possible footprint in your domicile.

1. Freeload - Also referred to as 'pulling an Earl.' In this approach, you find someone who already owns most or all of the necessary equipment, and is storing it at their place. Minimal cost, and your place remains (relatively) clutter-free! The downside, of course, is that when your beer is ready, it's all at their place. This can encourage social interaction and friendly revelry, but be warned: gluttonous and/or vindictive friends may be inclined to drink it all in your absence. Choose wisely.

2. Downsize - Most home brew recipes are designed to produce 5 gallon batches (about 19 L). Consider, however, the following equality:

Smaller batches = smaller, less expensive equipment 

Brilliant! This is the approach espoused by the folks at the Brooklyn BrewShop, who went from selling smaller, 1 gallon kits at the flea market to becoming a leading online distributor of home brewing kits. The necessary components for brewing 1 gallon batches at home are detailed on their website, along with detailed instructions for different styles. I looked into picking up one of these kits, but the cost to ship to Canada was ridiculous, and I'd rather support my local brewing supply store, where you can find all of these components at a fraction of the cost. For a little more information, though, and a good, plain-language primer for more technical resources like John Palmer's How to Brew (which Drew talked about previously), I would certainly recommend their book. 

A great resource for getting started brewing smaller batches. 

Whether you choose to freeload (it worked for me!), start with small batches, or dive right into 5 gallon batches, the key thing is just to try it out and see if it's for you. Don't let cost or space constraints hold you back!

(If you already know that home brewing isn't for you, that's cool, too. For you I propose a third approach - the ultimate freeloader - in which you find friends that have already made their own beer, and you just show up and drink it. A little less-rewarding from a do-it-yourself standpoint, but the end result is similar.) 

Dartmouth Clearance Beer

It's not common for the Nova Scotia Liquor Corp. to have sales that are actually worthwhile, but when they do, it's possible to get some decent beer on the cheap. A quick trip to the Mic Mac Mall NSLC yesterday turned up a few different beer I've never tried before, all at a decent discount. As I can think of no better way to spend this afternoon, I'll just have to drink them and write down my thoughts.

Belhaven Twisted Thistle IPA - Usually I would think of a thistle as a pink spiky thing that I wouldn't want to put anywhere near my mouth, but as this beer looks spike free I'll give it a go. Weighing in at 6.1% ABV, this Scottish IPA pours true amber with a small white head. With a nose of bright citrus (predominately lemon) and honey, the taste is predominately hoppy with a lingering bitter finish. While not as crazy as North American IPAs seem to be getting these days, it's one of the better European offerings I've tried. At $2.09 for 500 ml, it's a steal.

Official beer of Twisted Sister's 'Spiky Tour.'

Greene King IPA - Pours auburn, with a quickly disappearing head. It has a nose of malty sweetness with some stone fruit. It tastes almost exactly like you'd expect from the nose; it's sweet, there are hints of cherry and only a slight bitterness on an otherwise clean finish. Overall, it seems more like a pub ale than an IPA, as it isn't hoppy at all. Not something I'd be keen on getting again, but it was worth a try for under $3.

The fern really makes the greene pop.

Spitfire Kentish Ale - It pours a nice dark amber (almost a red), with good head composition. Smelling like a standard pub ale, there is also some citrus on the nose, and thankfully no hint of skunkiness. The body is fairly light, and it has a good balance of malty sweetness and hoppy bitterness, with a clean finish. All in all, this beer went down very easily, and at less than $3 for 500 ml, was definitely worth the cost of admission.

Fact: Twisted Sister was once signed to Spitfire Records. Coincidence? Probably.

Unfortunately, the reason they are on sale is because the store is going to stop carrying them. As a result, supplies probably won't last long, so if you want to get in on the deal, I'd head over to Mic Mac soon!

Local Beer Review: Propeller 2xIPA (One Hit Wonder Series)

After much anticipation, we got our hands (and growlers) on the first offering in Propeller's 'One Hit Wonder' limited release series, the 2xIPA. This marks the second annual hop-bomb the Halifax brewery has dropped on local craft beer lovers, having released the DiPA double IPA in February of last year (one must wonder if they changed the name this year to avoid the logistical difficulties of a 'Two Hit Wonder'). Well aware of the potential dangers of opening a 1.89 L growler of high alcohol-by-volume (ABV) beer on a work night, we summarily dismissed any concerns and forged ahead.

The 2xIPA pours a beautiful golden-amber, with a nose that yells citrus... but also whispers some malty caramel. The loudest voice belongs to tangerine, a hallmark of the Centennial hops used to dry-hop this brew. A taste proves the 2xIPA to be as bitter as you'd expect at 85 IBUs, with an excellent bite up front from the hefty amount of Cascade hops. That bite mellows to citrus with some pine resin, with an undertone of malty sweetness. The body comes across lighter than expected for an 8.3% ABV beer, but we've also been drinking a lot of stouts lately, so that might be throwing us off. The 2xIPA's surprisingly easy-drinking nature is completed by a clean, round finish, with minimal aftertaste. Just a hint of bitterness remains on the back of your tongue, reminding you that this brew means business, but more importantly, leaving you wanting more.

What, your growler doesn't have a scuba suit?

Propeller has definitely started off on the right foot with their first 'One Hit Wonder' of 2012. Beyond brewing a stellar double IPA, they have succeeded in capturing the interest and attention of Halifax beer drinkers, making the release of the 2xIPA a broader community event (much like the release of their Pumpkin Ale in the fall). We, like the rest of those drawn in by this limited release series, are very much looking forward to what the first of next month will bring. For now, though, we're happy to slowly defuse this hop-bomb and enjoy it while it lasts.

GROWLER WATCH! Propeller One-Hit Wonder Series Returns

Halifax's Propeller Brewing Co. announced that its One-Hit Wonder series will return on February 1, with the release of 2xIPA, a double India Pale Ale. The series will feature a new limited-run brew on the first of each month leading up to the summer, available only in growler format. As for the inaugural offering, 2xIPA is touted as 'a TRUE hop bomb, for TRUE hopheads,' and packs a potent 85 IBUs and 8.3% ABV.

A double IPA was also released last year... could we perhaps expect some favourites to make a triumphant return in 2012? In the spirit of baseless speculation, and of course, to celebrate the return of the One-Hit Wonder series, we thought it fitting to look back at last year's offerings. 

Zwickelbier - An unfiltered lager, this one was gone before we had a chance to sample it last year. We're really hoping for another lager this year!

DiPA (Double IPA) - Interestingly, the DiPA was brewed using Warrior and Cascade hops, while this year's 2xIPA is brewed with Cascade and dry-hopped with Centennial. We're very interested to see how the 2xIPA compares to its predecessor, and also how it stacks up in relation to other local DIPAs, like Hart & Thistle's Rocketman (with which we have a rather interesting relationship).

Bock - Given my propensity for hoppier beers, I was really surprised that this malty beast was my favourite of last year's crop that I sampled. If they bring it bock this year, I promise to stop using 'bock' in such lame wordplay.

Maritime Mild - Brewed using Maritime-grown malt, the Mild was light, easy-to-drink, and delicious. Imagine something with the drinkability of Coors Light that tasted awesome and supported local farmers. Win-win-win.  

So there you have it. We'd certainly be happy if they brought back any or all of last year's brews, but are also intrigued by the potential for something new. I suppose that we'll have to wait and see. In the meantime, stay tuned for our impressions of 2xIPA later this week. Get those growlers ready!